Two decades in virgin oak is risky business – take your eyes off the casks for too long and you can end up with a whisky where the oak swamps the spirit.

This one works. Amber gold. Malted milk shake, vanilla bean, milk chocolate, caramelised fruits (pineapple?) and fresh oak shavings on the nose.

The wood is first class, with the malt finely tuned, the two bouncing off one another until the last. Caramel fudge, sticky date and chocolate box flavours lend a short spike of sugars before gently bitter cocoa enters. Great length.

Needs little water. Fabulous dessert styled malt.

51.9% Alc./Vol. Non chill filtered. 300 bottles.