Tokaj is a viticultural region in Hungary that about 200 years ago or so was considered the absolute height of white winemaking in the world, with even other storied locations like Madeira or Jerez considered steps behind. These ‘noble’ white wines were usually vinified as sweet or late-harvest wines, with their fiery acidities and large sugar profiles enabling them to be aged for decades, if not centuries. Intuitive and brilliant vigneronne Tmea less instead focuses her natural wines on pure, unadorned, dry versions of this grand Hungarian terroir. She classifies all of her single-vineyard bottlings with an elemental name that connects to varying soil types or vineyard hallmarks; in this case, Fld translates to Soil. Deep, profound white wine, with Tokaj’s unmistakable volcanic minerality humming underneath.