Corbires is an under-loved appellation in the far southwest of France to which we should all be paying attention: wild, intense landscapes of craggy rock, scrubby pine, and families of boar trundling about at night. The surroundings lend themselves to distinctive wines: black-fruited, with clear notes of tar, lilac, lavender, and soil. The best versions of Corbires are the ones that aren’t over-extracted or over-oaked, however: this is dark red-fruited, full-bodied and rustic, a touch raw. Delicious.